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Joined: Oct 2005 Gender: Male Posts: 428 Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Karma: 150,159
Sorvan's TARDIS « Thread Started on Nov 6, 2005, 5:30am »
I'm sure that I discovered Doctor Who a little differently from most of you. I found the Doctor in the school library in around 1980. It was only after telling one of my friends about the book "Doctor Who and the Carnival of Monsters" that I was informed there was actually a TV show. I managed to find a few more books, but it wasn't until 1983 that I actually saw an episode thanks to a video rental place that had a pirated copy of The Five Doctors (I was living in Kenya at the time, all the videos in the stores were pirated). A few years later (and living again in Canada) I discovered that Doctor Who was on TV where some of my relatives lived, and I managed to convince them to send me tapes. I managed to infect quite a few people in Winnipeg before Doctor Who finally started showing on a local channel a few years later.
I remember thinking that it would be really cool to have a full size TARDIS when I was younger. My first build was 1 foot tall (made out of card stock) with the specifications from the Doctor Who Technical Manual. My next build was a computer model. I don't remember what the program was called (back in 1989), but I do remember that it didn't have a graphical user interface, so I had to feed it a series of coordinates, and tell it which coordinates to use to build triangles. Over the years my fanaticism faded, but with the new series I became interested again, and on one of my romps through the Internet discovered the people were building full size TARDISs, and that's really cool.
So here I am. I've bought a fresnel lens, and have started planning my build. I've been spending a lot of time working in Corel Draw to figure out exactly what I'd like to do. I'm planning my build around the Trench plans and since I'll be putting the thing outside, I'm planning on making everything sloped so that it'll be able to stand up to the rain and snow a bit better. I'll be building the thing out of dimensional lumber and plywood (no MDF), and have been thinking about fiberglassing the roof to give it a bit more protection (but since I've never used fiberglass before, we'll see).
I've been planning and doing research, but today I decided that I wanted to actually play with my tools (I got lots of tools), so I grabbed some scrap wood and made a window frame.
As you can probably see, I wasn't too concerned with measuring accurately. I just wanted to see if building the windows this way would be a good idea and to get an impression if this was the right width of the bars for me (so now I'll know how large I need to get the glass).
I'd like to have windows that can open, but in an outdoor environment I need to build them a little differently than many of you. I'll also need to build a frame to fit around the window (which will fit into the opening of the wall) which will need to be just right to be able to open properly yet still keep the weather out. I just have to say that I'm thrilled with the detailed pictures that people have posted. I can see how the windows in the real police boxes worked, so I'm going to try to emulate them.
I'm thinking that perhaps what I should do is to build one "perfect" set and then see about casting them in resin. I've really got to pick up some resin to play with. The only resin I've used so far has been to patch the crack at the bottom of the sewer stack in my basement (yay, fun!).
The next thing I want to do is find some really nice pebbled glass. I love the stuff that Timegirl and mantawrays have, but the website Timegirl mentioned doesn't appear to exist anymore. Hopefully I can find some of that stuff somewhere else.
Joined: May 2005 Gender: Female Posts: 989 Location: not in a galaxy far far away Karma: 106
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #1 on Nov 6, 2005, 11:20am »
Hi Sorvan It’s great hearing how you discovered Doctor Who. I hadn’t really thought about it having grown up with the TV series, my whole family just watched it religiously from when I was a kid. But I too have longed for a life size TARDIS for many years.
I must say your window frames look great – you obviously know what you are doing with woodwork (always impresses me) Those glass people are still around but they have put their prices up (UK based but they will send glass anywhere). They call the glass Hammered on their match page. I think the website is still there. Have you seen how Mantawrays has cast the glass in the ‘pebbled glass’ thread? – it looks Fab. Looking forward to seeing more of your build pictures! And I’d be interested to hear how you are going to make the TARDIS water tight (something I’m worried about with mine) TG
Joined: Oct 2005 Gender: Male Posts: 428 Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Karma: 150,159
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #2 on Nov 6, 2005, 5:04pm »
Hi Timegirl,
I think the major way I'm planning on making the box waterproof is by designing it to be so, and then using fiberglass and epoxy to deal with the other bits. The fiberglass probably isn't really necessary, I've just been looking at websites talking about boat building... and no, I don't intend to be paddling my box around a lake when I'm done.
If you want to learn more about epoxy, there's an online book that you can download from www.systemthree.com You have to become a member (it's free, and they haven't sent me any spam yet). The Epoxy Book is also available from a few other sites, but this one has the most current version of it (they wrote it).
For an example of how I'm trying to design it to be waterproof, here's a cross section for the stepped part of the roof:
The lighter bits are dimensional lumber (2x4s and 2x6s), and the darker bits are 3/4" plywood. Since the reveals are 1 1/2" wide (which is the actual width of a 2x4) I could just cut the angle of the step and leave it at that - but this would leave a vertical join which I would very much like to avoid (for both strength and water issues). To make all of this a bit easier to cut, I'm planning on assembling the three 2x6s with plywood bits together before cutting the 45 degree angles necessary to join them together (and trust me, when It comes to this, I'll really be making sure my mitre saw is at exactly 45 degrees).
I realize that I'm probably overdoing it, but if I've learned anything from my father, it's if you're going to build something, overbuild it.
Joined: May 2005 Gender: Female Posts: 989 Location: not in a galaxy far far away Karma: 106
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #3 on Nov 8, 2005, 5:03pm »
Thanks for the link to the Epoxy book – very interesting and all the stuff about fiberglassing is new to me. I’ve now been looking at some UK sites for boat building to see their waterproofing options.
Your roof design looks neat – they way the ply is set into in the wood looks nice but probably requires routing/saw table skills – a bit beyond me . Will the roof be quite heavy using that lumber?
I’ve been trying out a bitumen backed flashing strip over the wood on my roof but it is difficult to get it smooth and to hide the joints so I’m looking at other options for weatherproofing.
Looks like the glass studio have changed their website – probably why they disappeared for a bit.
Joined: Oct 2005 Gender: Male Posts: 428 Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Karma: 150,159
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #4 on Nov 8, 2005, 8:15pm »
Hi Timegirl,
Yeah, I will be making extensive use of my table saw. I don't think of it as being terribly difficult. It just requires a bit of planning to make sure that when I set up an angle, to actually cut all the pieces that need that angle (that way if my angle is slightly off, everything will still match up). It is the sort of thing I'll need help from my fiancee with though - it's best to have someone feeding the wood into the saw while someone else is supporting it on the other side.
Will it be heavy? Well, that all depends what you consider heavy. It'll be lighter than concrete. Actually, it wouldn't surprise me if it would be lighter than some of the MDF roofs out there - MDF is really heavy stuff. I'm expecting that I'll wind up with a heavy box in general, but since I intend it to sit in my back yard and don't intend to move it around, I don' t think that'll be a problem. My primary concern is making something that will withstand the elements. In Winnipeg the temperature ranges from around -40C to +40C and I can get 3 to 4 foot snow drifts in my back yard.
So I sent the glass studio an email on the weekend, but haven't heard back from them yet. <impatience> Once I do get the glass I'll be casting like Mantawrays did, but I think I'll try to get one larger piece of glass and cut apart the cast resin afterward.
Joined: Feb 2009 Gender: Male Posts: 175 Location: Somewhere beginning with 'S' Karma: 12
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #5 on Nov 9, 2005, 12:09am »
The old Season 18 style roof of my box weighs 60lbs (27kg). Not too heavy (no MDF), but you have to carry this up a step ladder and put it on top of the box about 7' from the ground without damaging the paintwork, which is no joke. My newer roof is heavier... Perhaps with 2 step ladders and an assistant it might not be so hard. I put a blanket over the top of the box last time I put the roof on to protect the paint, and slipped it out once the roof was in place.
Would love to see a picture of your finished box buried 3' deep in snow some day
I imagine you'll still need some sealant on the outside - water can travel uphill through narrow gaps by capilliary action... when it isn't frozen, that is.
Joined: Oct 2005 Gender: Male Posts: 428 Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Karma: 150,159
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #6 on Nov 9, 2005, 2:01am »
Since my box will be outside, I'd better have a sturdy coat of paint on it that can stand up to abuse. If it would have a paint job that could be damaged by me setting it up, I doubt it'd be able to handle rain, snow, hail, small animals etc. I don't think I'll go as crazy as LPU paint (US$120/gallon), a good exterior house paint would seem more likely.
Seeing it in 3' of snow would be cool. My fiancee suggested that at the rate many of my projects progress, this may happen in 9 years or so.
Water is certainly a huge concern. While several feet of snow wouldn't be a concern as long as it's snow, I would imagine that on a sunny day a dark blue box might absorb some of the sun's rays and heat up the interior - melting a little of the snow that's touching the box. It'll be important to make sure to protect both inside and outside from water I think. I suspect I don't want a solid floor just in case any water does get in (I wonder how much it would cost for a metal grate?).
Joined: Oct 2005 Gender: Male Posts: 428 Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Karma: 150,159
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #7 on Nov 27, 2005, 3:15am »
After investigating the possibility of casting my window frames out of resin, I've come to the conclusion that it it's just too expensive.
I started making windows out of Western Red Cedar, but after a while I determined that this wasn't a good choice for all the small pieces (a bit too brittle), and after exchanging emails with Ironageman I've decided to do 6 opening windows instead of just the 4 that I had purchased wood for. I decided to complete a whole frame though so I could see if my concept would work. So here's what I've done:
I decided to give my dad a call and ask him what I should use. Of course his response was "I've got the perfect wood right here"... if only he weren't half a continent away. So now I've got to decide if I'll just purchase more expensive wood, or wait for someone to head this way from the coast that can bring the wood with them... I suppose I could start working on another aspect of the project.
If I've accomplished nothing else by this "test", I have a great smelling basement now.
Joined: Feb 2009 Gender: Male Posts: 175 Location: Somewhere beginning with 'S' Karma: 12
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #8 on Nov 27, 2005, 5:56am »
Those look like really nicely made frames. They should stand up to the elements pretty well, I imagine. From the sound of it you have harsher exterior weather than many of us. I'd be interested to hear your recommendation for the perfect wood - is there something better than cedar for this?
Joined: Oct 2005 Gender: Male Posts: 428 Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Karma: 150,159
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #9 on Nov 27, 2005, 7:30am »
Well, one thing you have to realize is that "Western Red Cedar" isn't actually a cedar, it's a softwood that probably got the name because it's aromatic. I bought some because I know it is resistant to decay and it's fairly cheap.
My father's "perfect wood" is yellow cedar (which I believe isn't a real cedar either), is also resistant to decay and is harder. I think the thing that makes it "perfect" is that my dad has a pile of it in his shed.
He also suggested western hemlock if I couldn't wait, but stressed that it needs to be painted as it's not as resistant to decay.
Joined: May 2005 Gender: Female Posts: 989 Location: not in a galaxy far far away Karma: 106
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #10 on Nov 27, 2005, 6:43pm »
Those frames are looking excellent Sorvan! In fact, if they are just the test ones – can I have them? I hadn’t actually thought of looking for types of wood for the build – I was just happy when I found the right size.
You are certainly building it for "900 years of phone box travel"
Joined: Oct 2005 Gender: Male Posts: 428 Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Karma: 150,159
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #11 on Nov 27, 2005, 8:04pm »
Timegirl, no problem - how about I trade you for some pebbled glass I recently got a quote from the place you got your glass from... eek!
My big fear is that I'll spend countless hours making a box, only to have it rot away in a few years. I don't know what it's like around you, but there are a lot of lumber yards where I live, so it was only time before I started wondering if I should just make it out of spruce (the cheapest wood locally), or something else. In addition, it's an extra excuse to sit in front of my computer doing research instead of actually building the thing.
In truth, most of my box will be built out of spruce - I don't have an unlimited budget. I figure that most of the box can be heavily coated in paint without causing any problems, so any kind of wood I use can be fairly protected by that method. For the window frame (and probably the doors), if I put too much paint on them they won't open and close any more so I'll use a better wood.
Joined: Oct 2005 Gender: Male Posts: 428 Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Karma: 150,159
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #13 on Nov 29, 2005, 5:28am »
I guess I've decided to wait for my father to send me some wood for the windows, because I picked up up wood for the roof last night. I'd already figured out all the angles that I need to use, so I got the lumber yard to cut the 4'x8' sheet into the two pieces I needed, but I still needed to cut the triangles of the roof myself.
My initial thought was that I could use my portable circular saw, but even with using the fence (I have a fence that clamps to the piece of wood you're cutting), I wasn't thrilled with the idea, since I also wanted to have the blade cutting at an angle (so the pieces will theoretically butt together nicely), and I wasn't sure how easily it would be to adjust this angle properly on the saw.
After thinking about it for a while, I came to the realization that I should use the table saw, and that I could align the wood properly by using the mitre slots in the table.
To make sure this would work, I cut down a strip of wood that would fit in the slot (making sure that it wasn't too tight or too loose), and screwed this to a board.
I set the angle of the saw blade (just under 79.5°), dropped the strip of wood in the slot and ran the board through the saw.
It worked great, and flipping it upside-down, I can see exactly how far away I'll have to mount the strip of wood for the blade to cut exactly on my cutting line.
This will leave me with little screw holes on my plywood, but the way I'm planning to cut this, they'll all be on the inside of the roof, where it doesn't really matter. Tomorrow I'll cut the plywood apart, and will find out if I have indeed remembered my trigonometry from high school.
mantawrays Castellan Has a TARDIS, all lovely like... member is offline
Joined: May 2005 Gender: Male Posts: 176 Location: Bristol Karma: 1,053
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #14 on Nov 29, 2005, 11:10am »
Hi Sorvan,
Took me a while to stumble across your build thread and I must say I'm very impressed with your window frame design. I recently made up some more window frames a la KiwiDoc's build guide ( a big improvement on my original frame design) and even that amount of mental juggling (making sure not to cut the grooves on the wrong side) was challenging enough( being a bear with little brain).
I really like the way you have built the rear of the frames so that the glass fits up against the frames nicely. From the pictures I've seen of Crich this looks the same.
I've just finished my third window frame replete with cast pebbled glass and while they look fine must confess that I probably made a bit of a mistake ordering the glass panes so that they would fit exactly in the holes of the frames. It means that fixing them in place requires the use of pins and putty and although the panes won't fall out, it's not as well designed as it could have been. You clearly won't have this problem with your design. I hope you manage to source the glass more cheaply than antique studio. I certainly couldn't afford any more than 4 panes after they put their prices up.
It looks like the rest of your build is going to be of the same quality. Especially excited that you are building a Mackenzie Trench Police Box, like Mark. It'll be the first one in history that side of the pond! Looking forward to lots of pictures.
Joined: Oct 2005 Gender: Male Posts: 428 Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Karma: 150,159
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #15 on Nov 30, 2005, 6:03am »
So I started by roughly cutting the rectangular piece of plywood into 4 over-sized triangles with the portable circular saw (and a jigsaw to deal with the bit in the middle). The way I set it up, there was about 2 inches between my real cut lines so I had space to cut uneven lines.
I then took that wooden strip. and screwed it onto the plywood, 4.25" away from where I wanted the blade to cut (this was the magical distance I learned from yesterdays experiment. I decided to pre-drill all the holes in the plywood, as I didn't want it slipping around when I was trying to screw down my strip.
On the first board that I cut, I noticed that when I got to the end of the piece, it was easier to move it out of place (most of the board was past the edge of the table, and there wasn't much of the strip attached to the board that was still in the slot. I managed to do better on the rest of the cuts, but this would have been easier to do with an extra pair of hands (unfortunately my fiancee was out tonight).
So just to see how I was doing, I decided to try assembling it... not bad I think. I can certainly see that cutting is the easy part of the job compared to actually assembling it. I think I'll build a frame of the exact size so I can drop the pieces in and not have to worry about the pieces moving around (I sort of did that here, but just used a few screws which isn't really enough). Even though I couldn't get it perfect in my 10 minutes of fiddling, I can see that the angle I put on the table saw was right... I haven't forgotten my trig after all.
Joined: Feb 2009 Gender: Male Posts: 175 Location: Somewhere beginning with 'S' Karma: 12
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #18 on Nov 30, 2005, 8:58pm »
Your roof is looking good. Hope your measuring and cutting is more accurate than mine . I built a taller roof for my box back in July (replacing my Season 18 style roof). I'm not aware of anyone ever having got a perfect fit for the sloping bits - it seems to be a general problem. This time I didn't try - I just used loads of filler!
Joined: Oct 2005 Gender: Male Posts: 428 Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Karma: 150,159
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #19 on Dec 1, 2005, 6:09am »
I spent the evening sawing and figuring out stuff, but nothing that I feel is really interesting enough to show. I found out where to get fiberglass supplies today, and plan to pick some stuff up on Saturday.
Mantawrays, I couldn't find another source of pebbled glass much less a cheaper one. I think I'll just buy one piece and follow your excellent example and cast what I need. I spent a fair amount of time looking at the few pictures I could find with police box windows to make them similar. There are a few details I wasn't sure about and a few things I felt I needed to change since I'm making them out of wood, but I'm pretty happy with the design. One of the things I really like that's in some of the pictures, are the little "arms" that prevent the windows from opening up too far. I really want to do those, but haven't figured out how yet.
ScarfWearer, I'm actually really happy with how I cut the boards. There's one spot in the cut on three of the four boards where it went out of line a little (as can be seen on yesterday's picture), but it's only off the line by less than 1/16th of an inch (around 1mm) and I'll be able to shave those down before I glue them together. As I've said, the join angle is bang on... it's looking like I might not need to filler! <cross fingers> I guess I'll know more when I eventually glue them together. That'll probably happen on Saturday.
Joined: Oct 2005 Gender: Male Posts: 428 Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Karma: 150,159
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #20 on Dec 3, 2005, 9:24pm »
Today, I have glued one corner.
Amazing as it may seem (to me at least), that's it for the day. When I picked up the resin, I thought I'd get the slow setting stuff so I'd have lots of work time.... I should have gotten the faster setting stuff as it didn't take me long to do the gluing and the slow stuff takes 10-15 hours to cure, so I'll only be doing one corner a day (get one right, move onto the next). Maybe when I get around to actually fiberglassing it, I'll appreciate the extra work time.
As you can see, I used hinges on the top to attach the pieces of plywood together. I tried using pieces of wood screwed to the underside to keep them together, but this didn't give me the accuracy I was looking for. The waxy papery stuff that's between the hinges and the wood is in fact wax paper. I don't want the hinges stuck to the roof, and epoxy doesn't stick to wax (hopefully this works). I've also got a piece of wax paper under the entire joint should anything drip.
Those of you with keen eyes may notice that I'm using West Systems epoxy. Although there are many choices out there, I picked West Systems for two important reasons: 1) It was one of the two brands that the store had 2) It had metering pumps - so I don't have to measure anything (one pump of resin + one pump of hardener).
The resin isn't actually purple, that color happened because I added some filler to make the resin thicker (note to self: remember to don the respirator BEFORE opening the can of microballoons next time).
I really hope this performs to my expectations. I've already spent around C$200 (£100) on the roof (just the roof) and I'm not done yet.
Joined: Oct 2005 Gender: Male Posts: 428 Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Karma: 150,159
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #22 on Dec 4, 2005, 1:11am »
Hi Tom,
I've currently got wooden bracing screwed under the three edges that aren't being glued. Before I take off the hinges from the glued side, I plan on replacing the brace on that corner (so I don't stress the epoxy right away). When I've finished attaching the "steps" and fiberglassing the top, I'll remove the wooden braces as by that point they won't be needed. I may run some epoxy along the inside seams just to clean up the appearance (that would also strengthen it a bit). One of the reasons I chose to use 3/4" plywood is so I don't need lots of internal structure to hold the roof up.
Joined: Feb 2009 Gender: Male Posts: 175 Location: Somewhere beginning with 'S' Karma: 12
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #23 on Dec 4, 2005, 7:10am »
Wow - 3/4" ply! Should be strong enough to 'Adric'. Keep an eye on the total weight though - you're going to have to lift this thing about 7' off the ground to set it on top of your box when you're done. The roof on my box is 66lb (30kg) and lifting up there on a step ladder is no joke...
EDIT: I just looked back through the thread - I'm repeating myself! Sorry! (I'm clearly losing it... )
Joined: Oct 2005 Gender: Male Posts: 428 Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Karma: 150,159
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #25 on Dec 4, 2005, 4:43pm »
Tom, I can't say that I've ever seen 1" plywood. I thought 3/4" was overdoing it! I'm planning on doing the panels with 1/2".
Scarfwearer, Yeah, I know this thing's going to be really heavy. The place that I've been thinking about sticking the box has a tree growing over it, I would't be surprised if I end up buying a block and tackle and winching it up to the top.
Joined: Feb 2009 Gender: Male Posts: 175 Location: Somewhere beginning with 'S' Karma: 12
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #26 on Dec 4, 2005, 11:20pm »
Well, my panels are 1/2" plywood (well, MDO, actually) with 1/2 MDF for the decoration (not a good idea outside though). My box weighs about 600lb total (270kg). It's pretty tough and solid though.
Joined: Oct 2005 Gender: Male Posts: 428 Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Karma: 150,159
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #27 on Dec 4, 2005, 11:24pm »
So today I unfastened the hinges and flipped over the roof before reattaching the wooden support.
I didn't hear any cracking when I flipped it and while the other corners flexed a bit the glued one stayed rock steady, so I think it'll last until at least I'm finished gluing. I did notice that there is a little gap between the pieces on the bottom which wasn't completely filled all the way along the seam.
It's about 1/32" wide (just under 1mm), and varying depths. Once I've glued all the edges, I'll fill this up (as well as any other place that has a similar issue). I think part of my problem was that I didn't make the resin thick enough (didn't add enough filler). I was a bit leery of adding too much as I purchased the easy to sand but not as strong filler, and I didn't want to weaken the joint by using too much of it. After gluing together the first edge, I decided to just go ahead and spend more money, so now I have a high strength (but hard to sand) filler as well.
Besides a different filler, I also made another change. I found that the while the wax paper worked great, it was rather delicate so today I reinforced it with some tape (happened to have green painters tape handy).
Joined: Feb 2009 Gender: Male Posts: 175 Location: Somewhere beginning with 'S' Karma: 12
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #28 on Dec 4, 2005, 11:29pm »
The hinges are a good idea - I never thought of that. With thick plywood on top you could put the hinges back on, but underneath. Another option is to use piano hinges (aka continuous hinges), which come in a strip that you can cut...
Joined: Oct 2005 Gender: Male Posts: 428 Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada Karma: 150,159
Re: Sorvan's TARDIS « Reply #29 on Dec 4, 2005, 11:50pm »
Crispin, I'd never actually heard about MDO (Medium Density Overlay) before your post so I had to Google it. That sounds right out of my price range, especially as I'd like to texture the box so having perfectly smooth faces isn't that important.
As for the hinges, I had initially thought about cutting out more wooden supports (like the ones on the back, but with the opposite angle), but decided that I was feeling lazy, and I had some hinges lying around (the hinges I purchased for my windows actually). They're just temporary to keep the wood together while the epoxy is curing. Once the epoxy is complete, they'll go back in the drawer. I suppose if someone needed extra stregnth on the edges, some piano hinges could work. I just don't think I need it.
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(UK based but they will send glass anywhere). They call the glass Hammered on their match page. I think the website is still there.![[image]](http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4/sorvan/2005-11-06_1.jpg "[image]")
. Will the roof be quite heavy using that lumber?
Actually, it wouldn't surprise me if it would be lighter than some of the MDF roofs out there - MDF is really heavy stuff. I'm expecting that I'll wind up with a heavy box in general, but since I intend it to sit in my back yard and don't intend to move it around, I don' t think that'll be a problem. My primary concern is making something that will withstand the elements. In Winnipeg the temperature ranges from around -40C to +40C and I can get 3 to 4 foot snow drifts in my back yard.
<impatience> Once I do get the glass I'll be casting like Mantawrays did, but I think I'll try to get one larger piece of glass and cut apart the cast resin afterward.![[avatar]](http://relative-dimensions.net/Rebuilders/scarfwearer2.gif "[avatar]")
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