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Re: Jon's Tardis Build - Erie, PA (US) « Reply #60 on Jun 8, 2006, 8:33am »
This picture of the early days of my build may help. As you can see, the walls span the full width and fit snuggly into the "L" shape of the corner posts with no gaps - the reasoning behind this is that when together, it locks and doesn't alllow the entire thing to wobble because there's no give.
The two side walls are the full width, spanning into the posts, the back wall then butts up to the side walls (technically then the rear panel is slightly norrower, allowing for the thickness of the two side walls) and the doors just hang on an internal frame work.
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Re: Jon's Tardis Build - Erie, PA (US) « Reply #61 on Jun 8, 2006, 1:03pm »
Quote:
( how do I enclose a previous user posted comments in a box?)
Hit the quote button on the message you want to reply to, remove all the content you don't want, and away you go!
Quote:
And, does the top stiles fit underneath or behind the "3-stepped/tier" header? Cheers, Jon
My 3 steps are part of the top stile. That is, they are glued on top of it and are thus part of the wall, except over the doors, which rise behind the steps 1 1/2" (which are attached to the bottom of the sign box with 3 L-hangers)
TO DO: Final weathering paint job, fit lights and sounds.
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Re: Jon's Tardis Build - Erie, PA (US) « Reply #62 on Jun 8, 2006, 2:07pm »
That's looking brilliant Jon, I wish my carpenter had a workshop like yours - I might have been able to get a nice wide photo too; as it was I had to stand in a cupboard just to get the shots I got! Anyway, it's going to be great - can't wait to see more progress!
cheers Chris
(PS: I hope you're going to ride that motorcycle out of the Tardis at some point... )
"Gosh, that takes me back. Or forward. That's the trouble with time travel; you can never remember."
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Re: Jon's Tardis Build - Erie, PA (US) « Reply #63 on Jun 8, 2006, 11:37pm »
Chris,
Once my Tardis is built, I plan to take it back to the midwest around early 1800's and show off my steel horse! LOL.
Thanks for the compliments and info. I forgot to place the other quarter round on my posts on the outside segments. Minor details, yikes. I am off to Lowes now for 8 more pieces of 3/4" quarter round.
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Re: Jon's Tardis Build - Erie, PA (US) « Reply #64 on Jun 8, 2006, 11:43pm »
Purp, Thanks for the picture, that really helps. Any pics of the stiles for the doors, so I can see how wide the stiles behind the corner posts compared to the middle vertical stiles.
Tom, Thanks for the info on how to use the quote for posting and the header info.
Re: Jon's Tardis Build - Erie, PA (US) « Reply #66 on Jun 9, 2006, 9:49am »
[quote author=driz board=build thread=1146626413 post=1149806600] Purp, Thanks for the picture, that really helps. Any pics of the stiles for the doors, so I can see how wide the stiles behind the corner posts compared to the middle vertical stiles.[quote]
If you look at the first two pages of the "Purple TARDIS" thread, you'll see what I did with the doors - they extend behind the corner posts by about half an inch, to which there is a 4.5" wide piece that the hinges are hung on.
There's also this album on the "TARDIS Rebuilders 1" site that illustrates the early stages of the build:
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Re: Jon's Tardis Build - Erie, PA (US) « Reply #68 on Jun 10, 2006, 10:11pm »
Quote:
This picture of the early days of my build may help. As you can see, the walls span the full width and fit snuggly into the "L" shape of the corner posts with no gaps
The two side walls are the full width, spanning into the posts, the back wall then butts up to the side walls (technically then the rear panel is slightly narrower, allowing for the thickness of the two side walls) and the doors just hang on an internal frame work.
Hope this makes sense and is of some help.
Well, here's where I am going to need some help. I am going to cut /rip all the width timber and place the chamfer on the appropriate sides, but before I do that I am having a problem visually with the stiles and how they go behind the corner posts. My apologies for bad grammer and run on thoughts.
OK Purp or anyone else:
Do the walls of plywood that span from internal corner post to internal corner post have the stiles extending with the plywood for the entire 4" length behind the corner post?
Or do the stiles just go behind the corner posts 1/2" and the plywood continues for the remaining distance. In the later, there would be a 1" off set by the absent timber. I would need to have 1" framing connected to the internal portion of the corner post to prevent the off set or gap.
Forgive the verbiage here, but I am using Doc Neale's plans for dimensions. I am using 3.5" for the horizontal stiles along with a 4" horizontal stile at the bottom of the doors and wall. The vertical stiles will be 3".
Would the vertical corner side stiles have to be cut to 3.5", so that a 1/2" is concealed behind the corner post edge to give a viewed 3" for symmetry. Then would the framing for the hinge mounts be 3.5" mounted on the internal corner post plus 0.5"(from the stiles) to use the total 4" internal corner width?
Again, keeping in mind that there is 4" of internal corner that the plywood will be mounting against for one wall and 3" for the adjacent wall when the meet, unless I MITRE a 45 degree angle like glen mentioned in an earlier post.
I am I making sense here.? I am not quite sure how much of the 4" of internal corner should be used up for the stiles + plywood.
I want to fit my corners in tightly like in Purps build.
Another way to put it, I just need to know how wide to cut the vertical stiles that go behind the posts. The vertical stiles that will come together in the center will be 3" with a 2" gap. The corner post vertical stiles either need to be cut to 3.5" or 7" (3"+4" internal corner width). So I would need a total of eight 3.5" vertical stile or 7" vertical stiles x 78" long, reference plans in the below post.
Also, the width of the timber is 1" and the width of the ply is 3/4", so I will have 1 3/4" of width behind the corner posts or 3/4" behind the corner post?
IF anyone understand what the hell I am trying to say here, give me a write ASAP.
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Re: Jon's Tardis Build - Erie, PA (US) « Reply #70 on Jun 10, 2006, 11:48pm »
Quote:
Do the walls of plywood that span from internal corner post to internal corner post have the stiles extending with the plywood for the entire 4" length behind the corner post?
I don't see the dilemma here, Dr, my stiles run the length of the backing plywood. They only go in 2" but if they did go in the full depth of the corner post I would have just cut the edge on a 45o angle.
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Re: Jon's Tardis Build - Erie, PA (US) « Reply #71 on Jun 11, 2006, 4:37pm »
Hey Jon, Check out King bee's build he is at the same point as you and there is a great diagram for reference.
In regards to the signs you said that you liked the 2005 Font and style is that right? I don't know if the Gil Sans font would look quiet right on the Doc Neal TARDIS, I would have to see an edit of it. It is your build however and you can do anything you want as its only important that you like it. Maybe one of the guys can do an edit of the Doc Neale to help visualize that look? Purp? anyone?
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #72 on Jun 11, 2006, 6:53pm »
Karst,
Maybe I can use the same font and signage as Purp's build seeing how Doc Neale's and his plans are the same. Or, I can just make my sign boxes bigger. I think I really just like the black background and white lettering. I am open to anyones comments suggestion. I really I am not much of a graphics person to say the least, so I don't even know where to begin with this. I am trying to get all the minutia taken care of. Like the colour, lock, fresnel lense etc. Thanks again! Sorry for all the posts here everyone!
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #74 on Jun 12, 2006, 2:32am »
Ladies and Gents,
Inspite of the run on post above, which Purp has helped me visualize better with his drawing -- thanks Purp. I still have one question, the 1" thickness of your wall consists of stiles + plywood or plywood alone?
My stiles are 1" thick and my plywood is 3/4", therefore my wall thickness per your illustration would be 1 3/4" thick instead of 1". That would leave me 4" minus 1 3/4" = 2 1/4" of internal corner on the opposite side. 1/2" of stile from the door will be concealed behind the post, I got that finally and therefore there is a total of 1 3/4" of space left to build a frame, yours was 2 1/2". If I got that right, then I am ready to proceed to cutting the plywood to size.
Here are results of today's work:
My step son, Jacob is helping me today to stack the corners and stiles.
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #75 on Jun 12, 2006, 3:13am »
Okay - I ADMIT IT, I NEED TO BE COMMITTED.
Here's my crude drawing of what I am trying to put out there. I am beating this down. Sorry everyone. Does the plywood follow parallel with all the timber stiles - no matter where it goes? Like in Tom's build! On the door side, the hinge connects to the framing, okay - got that, does the hinge attach to the timber alone or the timber and plywood together? I am really feeling badly about all this non-sense. I just hate to have to buy more wood after trial by fire and screw up all my wood pieces.
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #76 on Jun 12, 2006, 4:47am »
Hi Jon, just writing on the run, so I may have missed some points in your earlier posts but as I understand it:
The hinges can attach to any part/s of the door that you ant, so long as what the attach to as firm and attached to the rest of the door. Mine simply go into the side of the vertical rail, the plywood backing is just up aginst the hinge but not screwed to it.
The space behind your wall ply - up to you - that ply is very thick so unlikely to be flapping around a lot. You could easily stick some packing strips behind it to make sure that it has no give - this is what I'd do, just so you know that you can lean on it or put a coat hook in thew corner one day...
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #77 on Jun 12, 2006, 11:01am »
Just to emphasise Glen's point a little, there are many ways to build a police box. For contrast, here's a picture of how I did my corners:
I added some beading to cover the gap so the light wouldn't show through when I light the box from the inside.
I'm not recommending what I did (which predates Glen's manual, and I think the design there is better), just pointing out that there are some options here. What you do will depend on your available materials and tools as well as your own preference.
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #78 on Jun 12, 2006, 3:42pm »
Quote:
Does the plywood follow parallel with all the timber stiles - no matter where it goes? Like in Tom's build!
On the door side, the hinge connects to the framing, okay - got that, does the hinge attach to the timber alone or the timber and plywood together?
Hi Jon,
I'm of the opinion that you don't want empty spaces in the corners - having all parts of the walls (stiles and plywood) extend to the corners will give it added strength. If your stiles are too short for the walls, I'd just stick another piece of wood in to fill the gap.
I'd do the doors a bit differently myself. Since the door frame will be under more stress than most of the rest of the box, I'd beef it up a bit. For the door frame, instead of using those 1" thick stair treads, I'd use a 2x4 (or 2x6, or whatever it needs to be), and then inset the plywood into that. I'd also stick a 2x4 in the corner instead of the 1" x 1 3/4" piece in your drawing to make a more solid frame for the hinges to attach to.
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #79 on Jun 13, 2006, 4:04am »
Purp, Glen, Colin and Crispin:
Thanks for the input! Colin, your sketch makes perfect sense. Between what you and Purp have said, is completely sinking in now. I like the idea of beefing up the door framing with a 2x4.
I am going to make my measurements of the distances between the post once they are set and braced for accuracy and plumb, I'll then start cutting some plywood to dimensions.
Once again, your guys are absolutey great. Thanks for dealing with my neurosis or obsessive compulsive thinking!
FYI: Karst and Purple got their Fresnel lens from Hardware Specialty Co. Their particular lens measurements: height 6" x diameter 6.5"
Hardware Specialty was very helpful. They have about a total of 30-40 glass 360 degree Fresnel lenses left in stock. They have not sold the glass ones in quite some time. Cost is $44.00 US. The information below is courtesy of Karst for those interested.
Contact: Joe Wilson Hardware Specialty Co. 3419 11th Ave S.W. Seattle, WA 98134
Just got the Fresnel lens in today, 12 June 06. The lens measures 5 3/4" in height and 5 1/2" in diameter for those interested. Here's a couple pics:
Heres the pics:
What do you guys think? Again $44.00 US.
Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, when you add pictures to your messages, could you put in one link, then press "enter" or "return" on your keyboard before adding the next link please? It's just that it keeps the board nice and neat you see if you're adding large images.
Cheers, P!
Purp - gotcha! I'll make my pictures smaller too if that helps. Sorry for the inconvienence. Jon
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #81 on Jun 19, 2006, 5:22am »
Thanks TG for your comments. I just wanted to say again that your build is looking incredible. I did not get much done on my build this week, life got a little busy. I hope to have more accomplished next weekend.
TO DO: Final weathering paint job, fit lights and sounds.
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #82 on Jun 20, 2006, 7:21am »
Hi Jon, Yes - really nice lens there. Mine is as wide as it is tall (which is ok, if you want that look) but I really like the tall and thin look that yours has. Oh, and nice looking build by the way! Keep up the good work.
cheers Chris
PS: My son is a bit too small to help out yet (7 months.. ) But you're lucky to have a 'Doctors Little Helper' around the place (..having tried to balance two posts at once on my own...and failed... )
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #83 on Jun 20, 2006, 9:57pm »
Quote:
PS: My son is a bit too small to help out yet (7 months.. ) But you're lucky to have a 'Doctors Little Helper' around the place (..having tried to balance two posts at once on my own...and failed... )
Chris, thanks again. I love having a 'Doctors Little Helper' around. He is so excited about Dr. WHO and the TARDIS. He is about the same age as I was when I started watching Dr. WHO, the Tom Baker years.
Watch out for those falling posts, the same thing happened to be me, that's why I build those braces to keep the posts upright and plumb.
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #85 on Jun 23, 2006, 1:22am »
Mark, Couldn't agree more with your comments. I certainly appreciate your feedback as well. Jacob and I are really making some good memories. These are the times that I will look back on when he's older, graduating, getting married, having children etc.! My found memories of my dad and I were watching Tom Baker as Dr. WHO. Memories = priceless.
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #86 on Jun 25, 2006, 6:54am »
Quote:
Hi Jon, Regarding your question about doors and their hanging to the posts - please enjoy the marvels of this five minute biro pen wonder. Anyway, I hope this makes it kind of clear for you. If you need further assistance, just yell.
FYI for those following my build. Purps picture is not showing up on the thread. I'll repost for completeness.
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #87 on Jun 25, 2006, 7:29am »
Hot off the press!
More work accomplished this weekend. I got the walls sized and fitted. I made the header and internal door framing for the front doors. It was really awesome seeing the 'old girl' starting to come together. I am starting to feel that this will all work out in the end! .
Header pics: I wish I had a dado to do this!
Front corner post with internal door framing, after everyones input -- thanks! The header above will sit horizontal to this vertical stud.