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Basically, I can either chisel out the quarter round or cut more out of the sign box. This is the first box, so I have not made any other cut out yet. I better get this figured out before I do the other three.
Nice to see you back, Jon.
If this were me doing this at the current stage it's in, I'd adjust the sign box rather than risk damaging the corner post. Draw the profile and trim out with a jigsaw, it would be great to get an off cut of your quadrant to draw around too.
Once cut out (make sure you do both sides at the same time) - keep offering the box up to the rest of the build and see if it's too snug, if it is, just adjust it where it touches until you achieve a nice fit. Don't allow it to be too tight as you'll have problems later, especially after you've painted the unit.
This looks absolutely excellent, I forgot the progress you had already made. I would probably make a template. I think I'd rather get it wrong on the signboxes rather than the posts. Good luck and good work!
I have changed the colour from Cardiff blue to layers of Dulux Wild Water and Venetian Crystal 2. I have gotten many paint swatches from our friend KB and also a painted piece of wood from Shane with the colour of his TARDIS, which looks great too. Many thanks mates! I decided to try use both colors together and will use black latex diluted down to give it the weathered look when I am finally done. I'd be glad to send you the US equivalents in terms of colour names. Venetian Crystal is called Blue Bolt and Wild Water is Wild Water. I can mail you the swatches or you can go online to Dulux US; they will mail the colour swatch then you can go and get a color match or to Dulux dealer. Let me know. Anything I can do to help.
A side note about Cardiff Blue, it looked a bit Purple. An to our TR2 admin_PB- no-pun intended!!! LOL
If you want the forumula for Cardiff Blue - I will post it for you later today.
Yes I know the Cardiff blue is a bit purple, that's why I think I will need repaint once I get the Box next week. Not a big deal, the repaint shouldn't take any time at all. How did you use both colors together on yours?
I used Blue Bolt, (aka Venetian Crystal 2) as a base coat for the entire build. I will then use Wild Water 1 as a top coat. The top coat will be applied in thinner and thicker layers to different areas in a non-specific manner, allow some VC2 to show through. I then will allow the coats to dry and then I am going to use a wire wheel near the bottom aspect of the build, especially at the base of the corner posts. I will scuff off the Wild water off to allow some of the VC2 to show through as a kind of layered weathering of the blues. I have noticed watching the New Series, that a lighter blue appears to be under the darker blue, if you look at the corner posts.
Last step, water wash with Dark Secret (aka Night Jewels) for the darken weathered effect. I am not sure how this last step will turn out, but that is my plan. At this point, I only have Blue Bolt (VC2) on as a base coat which was applied about 1 year ago, lol! It looks far better than Cardiff Blue. I think the name just attracted me at Home Depot.
I also want to add that Chris Rowand used Azure Blue from the Edwardian collection, it is so very close to Wild Water 1 that I decided stick with WW1 instead of Azure. Besides, Dulux in th US shows Azure Blue was replaced by WW1, so there you go! Thanks Chris!
If anyone else has any ideas on this particular arrangement of colors or applications thereof, please offer up comments, suggestions, criticisms etc. I would like this colour to be as close I can get it to the NST, which I know will be nearly impossible! But, if there is any new info on NST colour please do tell!!!
Cheers, Jon~
Note: Dulux Colour numbers in reference to above:
Blue Bolt (Venetian Crystal 2) - 10BB 13/362 Wild Water 1 - 30BB 0/225 Dark Secret (Night Jewels) - 00NN 05/000
The colour names seem to vary per Country, but the colour swatch number is the same. Swatches provided by Mr. KB, who has been a big help! Thank KB!!!
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #277 on Aug 1, 2008, 4:35am »
Some brief progress performed on my build this evening. I decided to change the wood for my sign boxes. I had originally started with plywood (18mm or 3/4"). We had some torrential rain storms last week and my cellar took on a tad bit of water. My one and only sign box was on the floor. My sign box soaked up the water like a sponge and the unpainted plywood became water logged and started to warp. I went out and bought some 3/4" timber made of pine. I constructed the four boxes tonight after wrestling with the dimensions. A major obstacle that I have run into do to my inexperience as a wood worker was that my build is not very square. The distance between each corner post is not the same, UGH! I finally got all the measurement down and viola, new sign boxes that fit pretty nice.
Demat, thanks for your idea on using a 'Contour' gauge used for base board trims and tile cut outs around corners with odd configurations. It worked like a charm. I was able to spare myself the grief from chiseling out the quarter round and possible damaging my posts...
Here are some pics:
Q1) Front sign box face plate with center cut out: Should I find a thinner piece of timber, cut it to the external dimensions and screw it to the front of the boxes?
Q2) Approaches to making the rectangular opening? And how do the signs stay inside without falling out. Seems a bit trite, but before I proceed to the next step, I would hate to have to undo or rebuild these boxes.
Q3) Last, what about the sides of the sign boxes that over hang the corner posts? When the front cover with rectangular cut out is in place, the most lateral or outside aspects of the boxes that are on the corner will be open from the side. Should I just cut a small piece of timber to fill in this? Should I attach this small piece of timber to box construction or directly to the corner posts?
I certainly appreciate any input or drawings... I am a visual person, in spite of how much I write...LOL!
I am off to get the bucket of wood filler to cover these recessed screw holes. I now have the dimensions to get my signs made... Yippie! Any recommendations for signs makers?
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #278 on Aug 1, 2008, 1:30pm »
Jon great work on the sign boxes they look brilliant. As for the signs as I would suggest you go to your local sign graphics shop. Show them pictures of the police box signs and tell them what colour background you are after. Which will either be blue or black and once your sign boxes are complete take one of them down to the store and tell them that the sign has to be at the same length in order to fit in to the sign box. Thats how the dimensions of the signs will be sorted out.
Also you could have the signs made from vinyl which is a strong type of plastic. Discuss this with them or you can have them made out of perspex if you wish. Vinyl is actually much stronger and more solid and my signs are made from vinyl and I am very pleased with them. Also if you want the lettering of police public call box to light up discuss this with them as well so that they can be back lit. Finally get a quote from them for all 4 signs hopefully they will be reasonable in terms of price.
Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #279 on Aug 1, 2008, 6:03pm »
You asked me off board to take a look at your questions, so here are my suggestions.
Q1) Front sign box face plate with center cut out: Should I find a thinner piece of timber, cut it to the external dimensions and screw it to the front of the boxes?
Yes. I would suggest either 1/2" or 1/4" depending on whether or not you're going to have the inner beading. 1/2" for a sign box with beading, by the way.
Q2) Approaches to making the rectangular opening? And how do the signs stay inside without falling out. Seems a bit trite, but before I proceed to the next step, I would hate to have to undo or rebuild these boxes.
Having fitted your front plate (as asked in Q1) you can either cut it out with a jigsaw or a router. I used both, just to see how much difference there'd be. Not much was my conclusion.
Make your sign graphic the same size as the aperture as seen in your pictures above, that way they will rest up against your front plate. To keep them in place, so they don't flop back in towards the box, you can do one of three things;
1/ Glue them in with silicone sealer - apply this to the reverse side of the graphics. If you need to take them out for any reason, you just use a putty knife to remove the sealer.
2/ For a permanent fixture, tack in some beading behind the graphics - a bit like the answer above.
3/ Magnet blocks. This is what I'm doing.
Q3) Last, what about the sides of the sign boxes that over hang the corner posts? When the front cover with rectangular cut out is in place, the most lateral or outside aspects of the boxes that are on the corner will be open from the side. Should I just cut a small piece of timber to fill in this? Should I attach this small piece of timber to box construction or directly to the corner posts?
Just cut a small piece of wood and glue / screw it in to the open sides. The reason for this is that you'll always have a nice snug and tidy fit. If you attach them to the posts, it'll be a pain in the back side to line it up each time and as the wood swells or contracts, it will end up not fitting anyway.
TO DO: Final weathering paint job, fit lights and sounds.
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #280 on Aug 1, 2008, 7:05pm »
Hi Jon,
Those new boxes look excellent! And I'm glad that the contour guide worked out I can't add anything to the excellent advice already offered in answer to your questions - except for 'all the best with the rest of the build'
chriskingbees Chancellor Senior Member TR Aug 06 member is offline
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #282 on Aug 1, 2008, 9:43pm »
Hi Jon I thought I might add my little bit about the signs staying in the boxes. On the whole I did exactly what Purple suggests with the beading on the inside and on the outside. The only difference being, that I fitted the inner beading first, and then inserted the signs, and then added the outer beading. I also used silicon sealant on both sides of the glass. Of course my sign boxes were in situ when I did this, and it was much easier that way. Great to see the progress, mate. Keep it coming KB
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #283 on Aug 2, 2008, 12:40am »
Many thanks Purp, Avadh, Demat, Karst and KB!
I really appreciate that info. Is this beading just square wood stock and is it just glued into the face plate? I would assume, but don't like to do that, assuming that is, it usually back fires...LOL
Thanks for the words of encouragement too. It feels good to be working on the ol' girl too!
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #284 on Aug 2, 2008, 5:13pm »
Jon,
If you are looking for a place to make your signs (I thought I saw that in the thread) I can tell you where I did mine. I did the signs first because I figured if I couldnt get the signs looking good no use making the box.
I went to a sign shop and had them cut 3/8 inch white acrylic in a 40 inch by 4 1/2 inch cut. Then I went to Fed Ex Kinko's that had a sign shop. They printed the Police box on black vinyl in the reverse lettering. I got lucky, the guy at Fed Ex was a fan of the show and he offered to apply the vinyl for me as he had good experience with it.
FedEx Kinko vinyl sheet $20 each sign. Sign Shop Acrylic cut $12.50 each sign
You could have a sign shop do both, I just happened to go to Kinko's first and felt comfortable with the guy doing the job.
Hey Jon, I hope you got my private question I sent. Very interested to hear your take on my wall problem.
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #286 on Aug 3, 2008, 2:32pm »
Scott and Primrodo:
Thanks... for the info, I really appreciate it.
I am making measurements of my aperture as Purp suggested. The next question I need answered is what dimension (LxW) of the cut out of the front fascia? When I review my plans, the width of the cut out is the same as the distance between the outer chamfers of each door, I can measure that on my build. I don't know height... The aperture height is 4.5" (inside the box). Any thoughts???
Thanks mates, Jon~
PS - Scott I did get your PM... Thanks. How small is the world? there seems to be 6 degrees of separation in the world...
Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #287 on Aug 3, 2008, 6:23pm »
If your timber stock is 3/4" thick, I'd suggest that the appeture should be 4" high by the whatever the width is from the outer sides of the window edges - effectively so they line up.
Measure the distance from the left side of the left window to the right side of the right window and Bob's yer Uncle Vera!
chriskingbees Chancellor Senior Member TR Aug 06 member is offline
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #288 on Aug 3, 2008, 7:56pm »
Hi Jon and Purple of course That's exactly how I worked out the width of the aperture. There's no measurement for this on the Doc Neal plan of course, it just appears to line up with (As Purple says) the outer edges of the windows. 4in seems spot on for the height too, with a small beading inset. Of course I cocked the height up big time, by using 4by2 blocks for the ends that were not really 4by2 at all Keep it coming Jon ol' son, great stuff KB
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #289 on Aug 3, 2008, 9:02pm »
Thanks for the tips. The sign boxes are nearly done. I just need to prime and paint. I will have pics later today for all those who might be interested... Also, I am looking for signage for 'Police Public Call Box' and 'Pull to Open'. Anyone out there that could help? Many thanks... I want to get my signs ordered... Yippie! Finally starting to move on my build once again.
Thanks again for all the help, love and support!
Cheers, Jon~
PS- Leave my Uncle of it! LOL... Seriously. what's the story with "Bob yer Uncle Vera"???
There's no measurement for this on the Doc Neal plan of course, it just appears to line up with (As Purple says) the outer edges of the windows.
... Because that's the way I designed it. "Doc Neale" based his plans on my build as he wanted one too, just like mine. I gave him the dims over the phone years ago and these are the plans he came up with. How time flies.
EDIT: "Bob's yer Uncle" is an old phrase, a bit like "Hey Presto" - as words, it makes little sense, but in context it does. I just bastardised the phrase for my own amuzement.
« Last Edit: Aug 3, 2008, 9:21pm by purpleblancmange »
chriskingbees Chancellor Senior Member TR Aug 06 member is offline
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #291 on Aug 3, 2008, 9:35pm »
Hi Jon I told you he was quick LOL Just to muddy your mind a little more. If someone says "Bob's yer uncle" to you and and you don't believe him. The reply is a sarcastic "Yeah, and Charlie's me aunt". Strange race, us Brits Jon, what? KB PS I really hadn't realised that the plans came from the PB build. I always thought it was the other way around. Looking at it now, it makes perfect sense, sorry Purple
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #292 on Aug 3, 2008, 10:14pm »
The thing that is very neat here about Purp's TARDIS/Met Police box plans (Doc Neale) are that he used Phi's theorem incorporating certain numbers that were relative to him to come up with his dimensions. The concept is simply brilliant. There is a part of PB that is now in the US with my build. The code is in the dimensions... It's almost Masonic, like the movie National Treasure if anyone has seen it. Read Purple TARDIS thread for the details on Phi.... Great work PB... Your plans are what I have used. I am going to change the file name to "PB plans" because that's who deserves the credit. Well done!
Next question is: 1/4" beading... Was this made from left over timber or purchased in a store?
The next thing is to get my signs made... Any help on signage would be great at this point. Next phase is roof construction and then finally windows and then Bob's yer Uncle Vera!
Let me know what you are looking for as far as signage and I can help.
Primrodo and fellow TR2 members: I need to put a plea out for signage for both the 'Police Public Call' sign and the 'Pull to Open' sign as well. I am looking for any signage for the classic Met/Police Box, TARDIS any season and NST, latter is my second build that I am starting here in the next couple months with left over timber from my current build. The former I am looking for the black background, but will take blue... I had a lot of these files saved about 3 years ago on my old pc before the hard drive bit the dust. Most of the signage that I had saved was off of TR1 msngroups, which is non-existant. I am reaching out for some assistance. Many thanks for those who may be able to help. My email address is: . I am looking for any signage.
I had a very productive day today. I have nearly finished my sign boxes. I need to pick up the 1/4" square wood stock beading. If anyone in the US knows who might carry this please advise. I just need to attach the face plate to the box and then Bob's Yer Uncle Vera...if I got that right...
Mouting the the boxes to the corner posts, I would assume just a standard 'L' bracket, correct?
This is how I approached the face plate construction:
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #296 on Aug 4, 2008, 1:36pm »
Jon superb work on the sign boxes mine are going to be very much like yours I think. Also I just want to ask have you managed to get hold of a router yet? This will be an invaluable tool for your new series tardis build.
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Re: Jon's ('DrIz') TARDIS « Reply #298 on Aug 7, 2008, 1:26am »
I like Doc personally, or Maybe Professa (with my best Ace accent).
Those sign boxes look awesome man, great work. I am looking forward to seeing your roof start. I'll give you a call this weekend to make up for the missed one last friday . At any rate keep up the great work.