Help and advice needed – please. I did read the TARDIS builders manual (it’s been bedtime reading for weeks) but the problem is me, I can’t lift large sheets of ply and I’m scared of circular saws. So I decided to make the doors with inset panels of Ply wood and to use a wood beading to secure the panels and give me that angle/chamfer of about 21 degrees (and the doors are not too heavy). But the panels haven’t got that sharp edge because the beading is slightly rounded and now I’m worried that it might look neither police box nor TARDIS. This is just a taped together door (there is rather a lot of glue and filler on the other one). What do you think?
If you're bothered about the beading being rounded, what you could do is stick them all into place, then use filler to sharpen the edges - that would work... just means using lots more elbow grease. Anyway, your build is looking good so far, so keep up the great work!
...or could you plane the thing? It looks as if the beading's slightly proud of the surface so you'd exterminate two birds with one stone. Anyhow, it's a neat build method ... I've seen a similar moulding somewhere with a sharper edge, which would solve the problem... can't think where, though...!
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Thank you all for your comments, I really appreciate it. I’m not sure that I’m happy with the doors.
I scanned the beading and it looks like this
When I put the door together properly the beading is flush with the door, It’s 22mm beading on 12mm ply fitted to 34mm wood (so the back of the door is flat). But the idea to plane it is a good one, I could set the beading forward and it would mean that on the reverse, the panels would be slightly inset – which might look nice.
If anyone can find me a better moulding/beading – I’d be grateful! (And then I can use these doors on the back) Cheers TG
In the US the lumber shops will cut large sheets of plywood to your specification; I don't remember whether they do this in the UK. If you want more than a few cuts they charge a nominal fee, but it makes lifting and loading manageable.
I don't think I've seen a beading that shape. You might be able to use a former with the right cross-section and some filler or putty, though. Or you could use narrow strips of laminate with some filler behind. What you have would be close enough for me though.
The original prop didn't have any bevels at all.[/quote]
Just how sure are you of the lack of any bevel on the original prop?
Reason I ask is that I detect a distinct highlighting effect in most relevant pictures to an extent that there shouldn't be if there were no bevel at all, even after taking into account camera and lighting angles.
For instance, if you look at the pics from "War Games" where Troughton is trying to reach the key in the lock, both the close up and long shot appear to have been taken from approximately the same vertical position and based on eyeballing which is confirmed by the angled meeting of the extension of the horizontal lines formed by the rails, the rails in line with the key cylinder are ABOVE the line of site, so any 90 degree angle to the edge of a board would leave the upper side of the rails completely out of site due to perspective.
Yet, there is a distinct highlighting consistent with a beveled rail side on all of the visible rails, and seemingly far more than could be accounted for by any rounding off of the rail edges with age and repainting and more regular than could be accounted for by dirt and the like.
If there is in fact beveling there, it appears to be quite a bit less than an actual Police Box's, which if we take to be 21-22 degrees (based on Ironageman's measurements) would probably make the original prop box's at around half that.
I might be wrong, but the impression I get from all the pictures I've seen just don't seem consistent with a pure 0 degree bevel/90 degree cut to the rails. Close, but not quite.
I know that there weren't bevels because I asked about this from somebody I used to work with who worked on the show with that particular prop... he said it was built from off the shelf stock that they quickly put together. The highlighting probably is being created by the texturing on the prop, all that artex and stuff - I know this happens because I've built a TARDIS before like this and got similar results.
Well, I should have pictures by now and I have a lot of lame excuses. Some things have gone wrong. Wood is just so….organic, never straight, knotted in the wrong place or twisted. I’ve just dismantled what I’d built which is doors, corner posts and base because it’s pouring with rain but I need to make the decision to keep it outside and just put a tarp over it. Not having a workshop, I have managed to make the house considerably smaller on the inside, storing all the wood. So, pictures soon but I’m worried it might not be up to Rebuilders high standards TG
Post by Scarfwearer on Aug 13, 2005 22:30:40 GMT 1
Well don't be shy! I think the point of a group like this is to share experiences, both good or bad and learn from each other. I hope we don't have 'standards' people have to meet. Wood never straight? Tell me about it! The left door on my TARDIS is bowed inward nearly half an inch due to warping, and my cabinet bolts don't fit properly because I didn't drill the recesses straight. Much of the refit I'm doing is fixing things I didn't get right the first time around. Oh, if you put dowels in the bottom of your posts to align them on the base, use at least 3/4" ones. I used a pair of 1/2" ones on each post and half of them broke...
Progress… I’ve been treating more wood with preservative today but got bored and went shopping for handles. These are solid brass so I’m going to strip the lacquer / varnish and let the weather do the weathering - good plan eh?
Didn’t mean rebuilders had standards to meet – just that the standard of TARDIS is high! TG
A dry weekend – yippee! (But I still bought a tarp)
First pair of doors nearly in place and I hope to have them all in by Monday. I’m still going for the inset panels and beading - Beading not on yet so the wood looks narrower than it will be. All panels for doors are all cut; they just need to be fitted.
Either I’m very short or I’ve made this TARDIS too big! – Anyway it seems to have proved that I will only ever be looking through the phone panel door - never the windows
Post by Dematerialiser on Aug 28, 2005 10:07:15 GMT 1
looks great, TG! I hope you don't have to try working under that tarp.. what with the english summertime we're having It must be very exciting to have something real underway. At the moment I'm still at the mercy of my friend's (the carpenter) schedule; all due respect to you for getting tooled up and building it yourself. I have three small problems - lack of space, lack of tools and a proven lack of carpentry skills, d'oh ;D All the best with the rest of your build! Keep the photo journal going, I'm planning to document my build this way (once it starts).
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Excellent, Excellent work TG, You are really moving ahead quickly now it seems. I agree with crispin the Slatted floor is a good idea to minimize moisture inside. I can't wait to see more progress pictures.