Thanks Mark Colour change is OK. Just as long as the styrene doesn’t crack in the frost, shrink, expand or dissolve… This syrene sheet cuts really easily (which is not my experience of cutting Perspex) and fortunate as I’m having to cut 32 panes to go with my pebbled glass. I might post my window pictures soon – probably from a distance (they are quite a bright white).
Roof still in progress, I’m still trying to work out a way of making sure my lamp will be secure on top – especially in high winds But real life and work just keeps on getting in the way of TARDIS building unfortunately.
Returning to the subject of ‘the perspex T’ for TARDIS windows. I know that the T is a very sensible idea and I did try cutting one but ended up with a pile of perspex triangles – so I gave up And I did notice that Glen says in [glow=red,2,300]The TARDIS Builders Manual [/glow]“I had some Perspex cut in a T shape” So do people get these Ts cut? or does someone know how to cut the perfect T?
I had them cut to a T by the plastics company I was buying the stuff from, quick and easy that way. Otherwise I would probably also simply use a table saw or jigsaw but *personally* I'd be nervous about gumming up the saw with hot plastic so would have to advise caution and a good cleanup process - Tom did your saw not get gooey at all?
Post by Scarfwearer on Nov 17, 2005 22:18:46 GMT 1
An electric mitre saw also seems to work fine - I tried it with lighting diffuser and also 2mm acrylic sheet and it seems to work even better than a table saw. Just go slow.
You get a small amount of plastic on the circular saw blade with table or mitre saw, but it comes off next time you cut some wood. Most of the plastic melt stays on the edge of the plastic, but you can usually pull it off pretty cleanly with fingers and without needing any sanding.
Thank you – might have guessed it would be the dreaded table saw Tom! I did try to cut the perspex with a jig saw but it still cracked and as Glen said, the blade on the jigsaw did get gummed up. Crispin - I hadn’t thought of trying my electric mitre saw – but I may try it now that I know I should be able to clean the blade. What sort of blade did you use? my blade is quite coarse
Post by Dematerialiser on Nov 20, 2005 11:12:58 GMT 1
Don't know if this will help, but a little while ago I needed to cut some kitchen worktop and some plastic and having tried (and failed) with standard jigsaw blades I managed to find a special Black & Decker blade at B&Q for cutting stuff that's prone to cracking and splintering like that. I think the trick of it is that it cuts both ways with finer teeth, instead of just on the downward stroke like most jigsaws. Perhaps that will work.
"Gosh, that takes me back. Or forward. That's the trouble with time travel; you can never remember."
So how's the actual build coming along, or have you stalled with the terror that is the sloped roof? If you haven't done your roof yet, I'd really recommend cutting the plywood like I did. It does require you to use a table saw, but you don't need to have your hands anywhere near the blade. I also have substantial respect/fear of power tools especially after witnessing my father buzz of the tip of one of his fingers in a planer (only lost about 5mm, but it I found it disturbing), so I don't like putting my fingers anywhere near moving blades. Have you ever taken a workshop safety course? Our local community centers teach them, as do some of the hardware stores. Using the table saw became a lot less scary after becoming acquainted with things like featherboards.
I suppose if you really don't want to use a table saw, you could use your mitre saw to cut slotted wood to the correct angles and then fill in all the spaces with filler. That might work (wouldn't be as heavy-duty though).
Colin (who decided to start his build with the parts that worried him the most)
It’s a very large blue tarpaulin at the moment (I had to buy a blue – the green didn’t look right)
I think you've done the right thing to build the difficult bits first. In fact, I think Tom said that it was the best way to build – I should have listened I rather like your idea of the slotted wood for the roof. I may re-do some of mine. Your roof is looking Excellent, by the way. When I eventually get my roof on, I will take a picture – from a very low angle or a very great distance.
But for now
TG p.s. only 5mm off his finger eh? – I feel much better now
And, I got some tester pots made up in various blues today
I just wanted to say doesn’t the colour of Dulux ‘Wild Water’ give you a fright when you open the pot – I just opened my tester and it’s bright turquoise! But it is drying to a really nice colour – I’ll need to do two coats to see if it will be dark enough for me. So back to the roof….
Nice to hear work on your TARDIS is about to start again... really I ought to do the same, but you know me - easily distrac.....
Ooh look - a squirrel!
With the Wild Water thing, when I first mentioned this paint, I can't remember if I said it was for the 80's colouring or not. When it goes on as a flat colour, it won't look right until you start mixing black into it - it has to look slightly patchy.
Anyway - don't forget to post pictures of your progress!
‘Wild Water’ looked so dark on the test card but seeing the true colour - it makes sense when you say 80’s. I also got a tester of Dulux ‘Venetian Crystal 1’ and it’s dried to a lovely dark blue – I’ll need to check if they mix it for exterior paint.
Can I ask – If I were making a small model of this, I would paint it dark and then dry brush a lighter version of the same colour paint over the contours to achieve a weathered look. Does that ‘sort of’ work the same for a large build?
lol – do keep an eye on those squirrels one made a hole in my tarp!
If I were making a small model of this, I would paint it dark and then dry brush a lighter version of the same colour paint over the contours to achieve a weathered look. Does that ‘sort of’ work the same for a large build?
Drybrushing does work on a larger scale. I used to wargaming and painted lots of little metal soldiers for this task. I must admit that I was a little surprised that the techniques that I learned on the small scale work fairly good on a larger scale. For a halloween costume I made a wooden sword, and I've had a number of people think it was metal (well, people who didn't know swords at least).
For those of you who don't know, the two really easy techniques are washing and drybrushing. Basically what you do is paint the whole thing in a uniform colour. You then take some of your paint, make it darker and thin it out quite a bit. You then "wash" your object with this. What happens is that the darker paint collects in all of the cracks - just like dirt does with age. When doing this in a large scale, you do have to be a bit more careful than with smaller stuff, but just take a big brush and slop it all over the cracks. You might also take a sponge and wipe off the excess. While washing accentuates the crevices, dry brushing accentuates all the surface detail. What you do is to take your base colour and make it lighter. You then put some of it on your brush, and then wipe it off until your brush is almost dry. When you wipe this "dry brush" across a textured surface or over corners, it will deposit a little bit of paint on the highlights, making them stand out more.
Since it's likely that people will inspect your box close up, it'd probably best to do a fairly subtle job, or if you're looking to have your dry brush colour to be significantly lighter than the base colour - do several coats of dry brushing with the colour transitioning gradually.
Like everything, you get better with practice. Of course, if you don't like how it turns out you can always repaint it!