How are people producing the ‘POLICE (Public call) BOX’ signs for full size builds? Were they painted glass on real police boxes? I presume the door sign would be about A4 size so could be printed to acetate or just be paper in a sealed frame but I’d be grateful for some advice on that one too.
And, apologies for my first post being in the wrong thread – I hadn’t read the thread properly and I’m new to this and I might have had a drink. (Is being drunk in charge of a Tardis an offence?)
Many thanks for the help I will get them printed professionally. I think I would like to use glass so I will to try to get it printed on self-adhesive vinyl to apply to the inside of the glass – let you know if it works. Seeing the original police box just makes me wish I was restoring it, rather than building new. I certainly agree about 4th and 6th Doctors TG
In hindsight I think there were some very brave decisions made regarding the 6th doctors character, very stupid but very brave. I also think that whoever did the casting on Jonathan creek was a doctor who fan because, among other things Colin baker was the first to die ;D
I suppose you could take the normal precautions against an atomic blast. Sticky tape on the windows and that sort of thing.
I would also like to hear from a few people who have gone the way of a professional sign shop. What exactly do you need to provide to make sure the sign looks right (I'd hate to have a $100 worth of signs that don't quite look right). I stopped by a local place (Ohio, USA) last week with a black and white photo of the POLICE BOX sign and the kid behind the counter said it would be no problem to put the words on a piece of plastic, but I didn't trust him to be able to match font, text height, spacing, etc. What has everyone else been providing, full size paper sheets, pdf files, jpg files? Or does any reputable sign shop send you a proof to review first? Any good spots where people have posted the graphics for others to customize for their builds?
Not that there is any one "correct" sign, but some are obviously closer than others.
Last Edit: Nov 13, 2005 19:40:35 GMT 1 by squishype
I went and talked to them about the job then sent them a set of JPEG images which would be correct in size and detail. I also calculated the length/height of each words to suit my box and stipulated that they match those. They then produced proof sheets to show me what they'd make. They were terrible - had the spelling right but that's about all. BUT, they were able to fix it on their computer right away and after about 4 versions we were ready to roll. The most tedious part was getting them to get the PUBLIC CALL in the right place and sized so that they didn't go past the top or bottom line of the POLICE BOX text.
Well I found a company that make vinyl signs, mainly 'For-Sale' signs you see stuck in people's gardens. I found out that one of the ladies that work there also makes signs for her own business (I didn't really understand either ???).
Anyway, I asked if she'd do me them, and took everything I could imagine. She has photo's of the real signs as reference to colour and font, a couple of printed versions I made giving a rough idea of size and word placement and finally a sketch of the both required signs with actual measurements written on.
The sign-lady was blown away! "normally all I get is a tiny sketch on a fag packet!" was her reply ;D
I too am quite concerned in case they come back (even slightly) wrong, but she said she's going to match the fonts, size and colour (based on what I've provided) and then print off a paper test sign for my approval.
This suits me fine, if the paper ones are fine, the 'real' signs should come out fine too.
Not only that but I'm going to take the paper test signs down to Crich with me and physically test them out to make sure they're right
Post by Scarfwearer on Nov 13, 2005 20:49:28 GMT 1
I took my prototype signs with me - created from a PDF which tiles across 4-5 pieces of paper, taped together.
I told the lady I wanted as close a match as possible to the fonts and letter positioning, which they were able to do with no problem.
Mine were clear plastic, backed with dark blue film, which had cutouts for the lettering, then with white film over the back of that. Next time (my current signs are paper again!), I think I'll get them to skip the white film on the back and use my own frosted plastic for that layer.
If you have Adobe Illustrator or Corel Draw, you can make up the letters the way you want them, outline the fonts (convert to shapes in Corel), and provide the file in EPS and PDF formats. Most sign shops have Illustrator or Corel and can use those formats easily. If someone wants help, I can do it for free. Bill "the Doctor" Rudloff
I have found that I dowloaded some signs off of page 1 or 2 of the old Rebuilders MSN site pictures section. I'll try using good old Microsoft Paint to try and fit them to my opening size. I tried using Autocad to print up singage on my last box and just couldn't get the fonts right when working from scratch.
Okay, I've now gone to a couple sign shops asking for prices. The quotes average $92 (USA) for vinyl cut letters or $132 for a "printed" sign. They say for the "printed" method that they'll take an image file from me and make a direct copy onto the plastic sign. Plus an hourly fee if the image file isn't up to quality for them to fix it. So its a raised vinyl letter on a standard color backing versus a nice smooth printing.
I'm tempted to skip the vinyl cut letters on the outside (they say I'd be able to peel them off) as this sounds too cheap and may not let enough light through. But the "printed" method hurts the overall budget. Any recommendations/opinions?
Have you tried looking into have the signs screen-printed instead of vinyl? Then you can have white-frosted stock for your signs, and the printer can do a reverse floodcoat in blue or black and leave reversed out letters. Bill "the Doctor" Rudloff
Never mind, I was talking about the Police Box telephone sign.
(I had a sign made in a different way. I decided to do it more like what I think it looks like, not what is was. It always looked like an outside plaque to me, you know those ones used in the 60s and 70s? They are hard plastic with white lettering mostly used for door name plates. They have them in many colors, including a perfect blue. The company I used was PlaqueMaker.com. I sent them a .PDF I downloaded from a website, and they are going to make it. If you want the .PDF file, or just want to know more about the plaque just email me. I think it will be very durable, and look great. I have already approved the proof. They will engrave it today, and send it out tomorrow. I'll post pics when I get it. The price was nice too. Just $55, and that includes shipping.)
Since my TARDIS is staying in my living room, I'm thinking of taking an image on a thumb drive to a copy shop (if I can ever find the proper font!), having them print off three of them on a wide poster, then slicing them apart and laminating them. It'll probably look cheap, but that's what I am at the moment!
I found a printshop that does large scale prints like the long signs and they laminate too. I'm probably going to get them to print the phone door sign too, since the other places I called only go up to 11x17 and I need it 12x13, but I might take it with me and try to dirty it up a bit, maybe with a cotton ball and an ink pad or dirt itself before I get it laminated, unless they have some specialty paper that looks the part.
I'm also curious about the lighting of different materials. I've looked through several threads about how they proposed to do the lighting, but nothing was posted about the final decision... except I did see where someone used rope lights.
How far from the back of the sign do you need to put that to keep the brightness up yet not show through the individual light bulbs behind?
Until next time, remember to, “Simply reverse the polarity of the neutron flow.”